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Brown leaves are fairly common on many house plants. Keep in mind that it might be perfectly natural for lower leaves on your plant to first turn pale yellow, then brown and then drop off. This happens on many kinds of tropical plants as they grow. Over time, the plant will form a bare stem. However, in some cases, brown leaves are a sign of cultural problems. If it seems like a lot of leaves are falling off—or if many leaves turn brown at once, or the upper leaves start browning—you may have one of the following problems: *. Not enough light. If lower leaves start turning brown or yellow, the plant might not be receiving enough light. If the discoloration is isolated to the side of the plant away from your light source, it's probably too little light. *. Too much heat. This often occurs in conjunction with too little water, but too much heat will cause leaves to curl, become crinkly and then fall off. If the plant is also wilting, try increasing water. If the rest of the leaves are healthy, introduce some air flow to cool the plant off. *. Too little water. Underwatered plants will first wilt, and then the leaves will brown and fall off. This most often happens from the bottom up, but it might also start on outer leaves on more bushy plants. *. Too little humidity. If the browning is confined to the leaf tip, and the leaf margin is still green, it's possible the plant isn't receiving enough humidity. If it's a tropical plant with a high humidity requirement, try increasing misting.Too little humidity may also cause black spots to form on leaves.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> If you see mealy bugs on your plants,there are several control options: *. Wash them away. Mealy bugs can be dislodged with a steady stream of water. Repeat the treatment as necessary. This is best for light infestations. *. Insecticidal soap. Insecticidal soapsare available on the market (such as Safer's Insecticidal Soap), or you can make your own by using a dish detergent such as Ivory Liquid. Try to find a product free of perfumes and additives that might harm plants. Mix the soap in a weak concentration with water (starting a 1 teaspoon per gallon and increasing as necessary). Spray on plants. *. Neem oil. Neem oil is derived from the neem tree. Use according to label instructions. In addition to its insecticidal properties, neem is alsoa fungicide and has systemic benefits (meaning the plant absorbs it so it can control insects it doesn't directly contact). According to the Environmental Protection Association, neem is safe for use onvegetables and food plants as well as ornamentals. *. Kitchen insect spray. This all-purpose insect spray was developed by the editors of OrganicGardening magazine and came to me by way of Rodale's Organic Gardener's Handbook of Natural Insect and Disease Control . To make a batch, combine 1 garlic bulb, 1 small onion, and 1 teaspoonof cayenne pepper in a food processor or blender and process into a paste. Mix into 1 quart of water and steep for 1 hour. Strain through a cheesecloth and add 1 tablespoon of liquid dish soap. Mix well. The mixture can be stored for up to 1 week in the refrigerator. A number of stronger insecticides areapproved for use against mealybugs,as well as beneficial insects such as beetles ( Cryptolaemus montrouzieri ) and parasitic wasps ( Leptomastix dactylopii ). However, stronger pesticides can cause a danger to petsand humans, and few indoor gardeners are keen on releasing beetles and wasps in their homes. These biological controls may be better suited to greenhouse cultivation. If an infestation cannot be controlledafter two or three weekly applications of insecticide, consider destroying the plant before the mealybugs spread to other plants in your home.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Mildew/ fungus on my orange Agricultural Insecticide Emamectin Benzoate (90% TC)>>>>>>>>>>>>> dihydromorin (2.51%) and the stilbene oxyresveratrol (2.65%).>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> XENO FACTORS: Flavones: Isoflavones: Stilbenes: Flavonones: Chalcones: Quercetin osajin Resveratrol Naringenin Butein Pentahydroxyflavone scandenone Piceatannol Dihydromorin Isoliquiritigen Kaempferol auriculasin Deoxyrhapontin Pentahydroxychalcone Apigenin pomiferin Oxyresveratrol isobavachalcone Fisetin Tetrahydroxystilbenes Tetrahydroxyflavone Luteolin Hydroxyapigenin>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Mature orange trees do not require sprays. Sprays correct nutrient deficiencies, kill whiteflies and other pests, and reduce weeds around orange trees. Once citrus trees are established, in about one to two years after planting, they require little upkeep and rarely need any spray applications. Avoid spraying citrus during hot, dry or windy conditions. Spray concentrations differ by product so it is important to read labels and follow application directions carefully. 1. Foliar Sprays *. Use a foliar spray to treat orange trees for magnesium, zinc or manganese deficiencies. Symptomsof magnesium deficiency include yellow blotches along the midribs of mature leaves. Leaves near the fruit exhibit symptoms most commonly. Adjust the soil pH of magnesium deficient trees to a range of 6.0 to 6.5 and spray young leaves in spring with magnesium nitrate before they harden off. Paleyellow to white leaves with irregular green bands along the midrib characterize a zinc deficiency. Apply zinc sulfate, oxide, or nitrate sprays to spring flush leaves before they harden off.Manganese deficiency often follows cold winters. Symptoms include dark green bands along themidrib of the leaf and lateral veins with light green areas between theveins. Spray manganese compounds on young leaves beforethey are fully opened to correct a deficiency. 2. Copper Fungicides *. Apply copper fungicide sprays to orange trees with alternaria, citrus scab or greasy spot. Trees infected with alternaria exhibit blackening leaf veins surrounded by dark lesions. Corky outgrowths on leaves, shoots and fruit characterize citrus scab. Blister spots on lower leaf surfaces and yellow spots on upper leaves are symptoms of greasy spot. To treat alternaria and citrus scab, apply copper fungicide to spring flush leaves when they are 1/4 to 1/2 open. Apply copper to the undersides of leaves when treatingfor greasy spot. 3. Insecticidal Soaps *. Insecticidal soap sprays kill pests on orange trees on contact and have no residual effect on the plant. These products are approved for organic gardening. Insecticidal soaps disrupt cell membranes of pests, such as aphids, mealybugs, whiteflies and spider mites. Improper concentrations and overuse can cause phytotoxicity in citrus trees so it is important to read and follow the directions carefully when using insecticidal soaps. The University of Colorado Extension office recommends diluting insecticidal soaps two to three times more than label instructions suggest to reduce risk of injury to plants. Insecticidal soaps can be made from dish soaps,but these are more likely to cause injury to trees and are not as effective as commercial products if not mixed properly. 4. Horticultural Oils *. Horticultural oils provide effective treatment for several citrus pests, including citrus psyllid and citrus rust mite. Neem and other oils do not kill beneficial insects, have a low toxicity to vertebrates and break down quickly in the environment. Symptoms of citrus psyllid include distortion and curling of young leaves and sooty mold resulting from honeydew excretions. Fruit infested with citrusrust mite turns rust colored and gradually blackens. Because horticultural oils work on contact, they require frequent application for effectiveness. However, they should not be applied to trees when temperatures exceed 90 degrees Fahrenheit. 5. Water *. Dislodge aphids, whiteflies and ants from orange trees with a forceful spray of water. Spray over and under the leaves for best results. Spray the tree for several days to discourage pests from returning. This treatment does not remove eggs which may be hiding on the underside of leaves or buried in the soil